Watching young Kate Moss, dotted with freckles and sand, blink against the sun is cause for déjà vu. We’ve seen this somehow before—those delicate, clasped arms and hair raked with seawater—only this time, unguarded, she lets out a wordless flicker of exasperation directed at her boyfriend behind the camera, a momentary fissure swept away by the next frame.
Seen here for the first time, this dreamlike glimpse of the nascent supermodel is part of a cache of outtakes shot by Mario Sorrenti in 1993 for Calvin Klein’s Obsession. That iconic fragrance campaign pivoted on an idea radical in its simplicity: Instead of fabricating romance for marketing’s sake, what if you document it? Klein himself tapped the rising photographer and muse—then inseparable and in love—sending the couple off to Jost Van Dyke, in the British Virgin Islands, armed with loads of film. “We were in this beautiful, crazy place in our minds, and the emotion was very honest,” Sorrenti recalls of the 10 days spent camped out at a secluded beachfront ruin—no hair, no makeup, no stylists. The resulting images, bracingly intimate in black-and-white stills and gauzy 16-millimeter footage, redefined the visual language of perfume.